톰 에반스의 엘캡 리포트 (ElCap Report By Tom Evans, 2012. 6.18.~23.)
한국팀 관련 기사 및 참고 내용을 발췌해서 정리한 것이며, 게시 목적은 '차돌산악회'의
'요세미티 국립공원 엘케피탄(탠저린 트립 루트) 등정 1주년'을 기념하기 위한 것입니다.
ElCap Report 6/18/12, Monday - Submitted by Tom Evans on Tue, 06/19/2012 - 01:02
Yo… It’s summertime, summertime, sum sum summertime, summertime! Pretty warm .... the first day of Summer is just a few days away. However, the temperatures are due to moderate in the next few days, so several teams are blasting soon. Don’t be discouraged, you can do it, just take some extra water and a solar protection device… one is featured below! Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!
Tangerine Trip: A 4 person, Team Extreme, Korean team began this route today. I spotted them on the second pitch this afternoon. They looked to be having fun and making progress. This is the first ascent of the route this season…. unbelievable!
Korean team moving up to the top of the 2nd.
Bored belayers, waiting for the leader to finish the 3rd on a warm day.
(참고) Shortest Straw(짧은 스트로우 루트) : Cheyne Lempe, and old timer, Mark Hudon blasted on the route today. They plan about 4.5 days on the route. Mark protected by his solar protection device(햇빛가리개,양산).
ElCap Report 6/19/12, Tuesday - Submitted by Tom Evans on Tue, 06/19/2012 - 23:47
Yo.. Nicer today with cooler temperatures and breezes. The action is heating up on the Trades and some of the less done routes. I have a climber I need to get some assistance for before night so I will make this quick. Today’s ElCap Report …written just for you…unique in all the world!
Lower down a Korean team of two spent most of the morning in their ledge at the top of the second pitch and came down early in the afternoon. I speak no Korean and they no English so I don’t know what is up with them.
Lounging on the ledge late in the morning.
ElCap Report 6/20/12, Wednesday - Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 06/21/2012 - 00:17
Yo… Well it started out well enough with clear skies and nice breezes… The boys in the puzzle palace decided that it was a perfect day… warm, strong breezes, low humidity, dried forest … Yep! Perfect day for a controlled burn! By 2pm the air was thick with smoke, born into the Valley by the seasonal west wind. Seems that the term “controlled burn” is often an oxymoron around the Western United States. Hopefully, the formulas and ground conditions will make this a good one. Much of Yosemite is in dire need of an aggressive burning program and I’m sure it wouldn’t be happening if it wasn’t a good time. A small inconvenience for a few days, most likely. Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!
Tangerine Trip: Ki hyung Yoo, Myung Ho Kayg, Jong Eun Song, and Eee Soon Chung (a female climber) blasted on the route today. Try saying their names 5 times without stopping!! They are from the Extreme Team Riders Climbing School in Seoul, Korea. The climber leading the 5th pitch took a little tumble 30ft out from the belay but was soon back in the fight. They are planning several days on the route… the first team to climb it this season.
The famous, Black Cat, eyeing two of the climbers.
Lower down the Spray Brothers are still MIA, but have been replaced by another group of Korean Extreme Team climbers. They are Yong Chul Cho, Koo In Chung, Yoon Sun Chung (a female climber). They were climbing toward the Stork when I last noticed them through the smoke.
Korean crew and kit at the belay atop the third pitch.
Lower down I did spot a team wandering into the Legs as the smoke enveloped the view.
I didn’t get out west but hear there is a party on Lurking Fear. The smoke was just too thick to make it worthwhile to expend the gas and time to shoot them.
ElCap Report 6/21/12, Thursday - Submitted by Tom Evans on Fri, 06/22/2012 - 00:04
Yo… warm today but without the smoke of yesterday. The light was not the best today, nor was the action on the Cap, so this will be a brief report. Today’s ElCap Report … written just for you.. unique in all the world!
Trip: The Extreme Team’s four members make a bright flash of color on the route today and were hauling to the top of the 8th as I left. They are moving along efficiently enough to stay on the route.
Lower down a Korean Extreme Team crew climbed last evening to Dolt and made their way to the Jardine Traverse by afternoon. They are, Do Yong Lee, Jin Hyung Kim, Haug Sun Oh (a female climber). They didn’t look like they had the thing dialed but made good progress… so … looks can be deceiving.
Jardine Traverse on the Nose.
(참고) Mescalito (메스칼리토 루트) : Seagull and leader. (갈매기와 리더)
ElCap Report 6/22/12, Friday - Submitted by Tom Evans on Sat, 06/23/2012 - 00:23
Yo… Perfect temperatures today as it was Fall in Summer for a change. The wind was pretty stout in the afternoon, however. The Captain is kicking butts these days. In the last several days, out of 6 teams that went on the Cap, only 1 remains! The Korean Extreme Riders Trip Team is the only one left on the wall! Good job ElCap!! Some replacements have arrived and, hopefully, will fare better than previous teams crushed by the Captain. We expect several days of cooler than normal temperatures and no rain… so this is it!!! The last of the last chances to get on that route you wanted to do this season. Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!
Trip: The Extreme Team of 4 climbers climbed higher as the day wore on and were heard playing tunes and cutting up for their leader, IC Kang, who listened intently on the radio.
Finishing the “Ramp” on the Trips 10th pitch this morning.
ElCap Report 6/23/12, Saturday - Submitted by Tom Evans on Sun, 06/24/2012 - 01:01
Yo… Wow!…Fall has really fallen here! Windy, very chilly here at the Bridge today … quite unusual for this time of year. The season is closing out now and this will be the last “scheduled” Report. I will keep shooting as long as I am here, so if you are interested in shots, then be sure to contact me. I may write or post something, if anything interesting or extraordinary happens… so stay tuned. It has been a pretty interesting season with a couple of speed records on the Nose and some other great climbing. As best I can judge, Alex Honnold had the best season of any climber in the history of Yosemite climbing. Our congratulations go out to him!
The great weather made for lots of opportunities to climb the Captain, but big wall climbing seems on the wane at this time. Maybe the Fall will be more productive on the Captain. Congratulations to the climbers who came out and gave it their very best, no matter the result. I plan to be back for the Fall season, as that is the best time of year to photograph climbers on ElCap. So stay tuned, when the air is crisp and the leaves start to turn, for there will be another round of my best photographic efforts and tales of climbers striving to be the best they can. Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!
Trip: The Extreme Team climbers on the route are moving up steadily and are just now on the start of the bolt ladders. They should be off tomorrow.
The first light felt pretty good up there I would bet, as the wind and cold were a force with which to be reckoned.
A Korean team of three hauled some kit over to Lurking Fear and are starting in the morning.
On that pleasant note, I will close out the Report for the Spring Season. I would greatly appreciate any donations to the site that you might wish to send. I also thank all you loyal readers for making my tireless efforts so worthwhile. Have a great summer!
So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 24th day of June, 2012. Until next time, Tom Evans
(끝)
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